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THIS RESTAURANT HAS CHANGED LOCATIONS Nobu Miami Beach Restaurant Review: Considering executive chef Nobuyuki Matsuhisa's reputation as the force behind "new style" (just slightly hot oil-seared) sashimi, marinated black cod, and many other dishes now found on virtually all contemporary Japanese fusion menus, the non-glam quarters of Nobu Miami Beach seem strange. No matter; ignore the décor and focus on the food. Chef Matsuhisa has restaurants in New York, Los Angeles, Las Vegas, London and numerous other locales, so you won't find him in the kitchen. But this beach branch has always interpreted the master's innovative Japanese-Peruvian fusion creations with aplomb. Special dishes include rock shrimp tempura with piquant chile-spiked light cream sauce, Arctic char with crispy baby spinach, and the signature black cod with miso (imitated by many, equaled by none). There are multi-course tasting menus, but since these feature the eatery's comparatively boring entrées, it's wiser to put together your own meal of small plates and some of the town's best, if priciest, sashimi, sushi rolls, and flash-marinated contemporary ceviches. Subtle, top-shelf sakés will smooth the sting of the hefty check.