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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Olivea Restaurant Review: It's loud, busy and small, just the way a neighborhood restaurant should be. And on certain nights, without warning, executive chef John Broening makes head cheese---this and that from a hog's head---which you won't find anywhere else in Denver. It's that head cheese, along with the house-made charcuterie---lamb sausage, boudin blanc, country pâté and duck liver mousse---that makes Olivéa a must-go destination for anyone who embraces the head-to-tail movement. But there's more to Olivéa than just charcuterie and offal: mushroom gnocchi; pancetta-wrapped pork loin with Brussels sprouts and flageolet beans; seared scallops with puréed cauliflower and salsa verde; and the braised half chicken, complemented by farro, green olives and mushroom, for example. There's as much attention paid to the wine and cocktail list as the food board, and desserts like the chocolate and fleur de sel caramel tart with milk chocolate gelato come courtesy of pastry chef Yasmin Lozada-Hissom.