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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Olivier Roellinger Restaurant Review: Hidden up in Cancale's town center behind the church, the stately Roellinger family manor treats guests to views of a serene Japanese garden and animated duck pond in place of spectacular ocean vistas. But what's outside isn't all that important...because from the second Olivier Roellinger's cuisine touches your lips, you're sure to set sail on your own sea of dreams. Roellinger, who dislikes the limelight (he maintains a low profile despite his various awards), focuses his energies on giving diners a wonderful world to discover in every dish. When Brittany lost a chemist (his former profession) in Roellinger, it gained a first-rate chef inspired by every ounce of magic in his region. The tides and seasons determine his offerings: a heavenly medley of sea scallops, clams, and sea urchin in a vinaigrette of herbs from the deep; delicate sea crab with young leeks in an aromatic lemongrass bouillon; incomparable grilled turbot flavored with paprika; spit-roasted salt-marsh lamb; a now-classic John Dory "retour des Indes," seasoned with no fewer than fourteen spices. Mere words do not do justice to the ethereal tastes we experienced. Could it be that archangel Saint-Michel brushed wings with the Roellingers?