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One Bellevue Restaurant Review: The Astors and Vanderbilts of Newport mansion fame would have been quite comfortable dining in the richly appointed One Bellevue, and likely would have tipped cane to top hat in approval of executive chef Kevin Thiele's sophisticated menu and impressively paired wines, as well. Yet we find the atmosphere and service at this hotel restaurant anything but stuffy, particularly while dining al fresco on the small garden patio where the restaurant holds its weekly tapas dinners and 'Spirits and Stogies Wednesdays' events. Chef Thiele's menu is creative, sophisticated and unpretentious. Our meal opened with an almost-tartare, chili-rubbed square of seared beef balanced on a refreshing cube of watermelon, topped with arugula and a light lemon vinaigrette. Each individual flavor sparkled, particularly when paired with a glass of Prosecco from Mionetto. We also recommend the thick, chewy house-cured bacon steak garnishing a jumbo seared scallop and asparagus appetizer misted with truffle oil. Vegetarians would still be satisfied with the dish sans the brown-sugar cured bacon. A bluefish pâté served with sourdough bread wasn't our style, but a chanterelle mushroom pasta in brown butter with watercress seems a fine winter entrée, especially when accompanied by a glass of French Chablis. Finishers may be liquid (dessert martinis) or substantial: get in touch with your inner kid and order still-warm chocolate chip cookies or get playful with a Naughty Monkey --- a crêpe filled with Nutella, caramelized bananas, whipped cream and chocolate syrup.