Open late Fri.-Sat.
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ONE. midtown kitchen Restaurant Review: ONE. midtown kitchen has oscillated from being edgy to familiar over the course of time. Gone are dishes that made it a stand-out, such as innovative house-cured meats. Now, the “Small Plates” hold the most appeal, such as the cauliflower soup, a rabbit tasting and wood-roasted marrow with braised lamb. From the wood-burning oven comes a raft of "Big Plates." Under this category you’ll find everything from classic pizzas (such as the margherita) to a burger with onion jam and Gruyère. Grilled quail with lentils and seared duck breast with celery root purée provide additional interest. The wine list is divided into $20, $30 and $40 a bottle categories, each one offering the listed wines by the glass, the half glass and the bottomless glass option (with dining only). A bottle-only list holds some serious treats, such as the Arbios Cabernet Sauvignon. House-made desserts include various sorbets and a pecan-crusted Kit Kat Bar. Note that there is a challenging noise level when the restaurant is full. Consider early or late visits if you wish to avoid the worst of the din.