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One Restaurant Restaurant Review: The Hazelton Hotel attracts its share of high-profile guests, so it's fitting that One Restaurant features the cuisine of Canadian celebrity chef Mark McEwan (North 44, Bymark). Toronto's hot design firm Yabu Pushelberg created a space that's grand, yet spare, with amusing touches (think grey cowhide-accented walls and luminescent gold mesh curtains). Austere grey and black tones and wood floors give a masculine tone that's sassed up by red doors at one end. An airy anteroom and lounge --- popular with the cocktail crowd --- lead from the hotel side into the dining room. The busy kitchen, which is under executive chef Andrew Ellerby, turns out home cooking with a contemporary twist. Among the appetizers are simple, butter-braised lobster served in china spoons, crispy chicken tacos with Korean barbecue sauce and a napa slaw, and king crab cakes with mango salsa. Mains generally are placed in the middle of the table for sharing, as are vegetables and sides, which must be ordered separately. Entrées might range from steelhead trout with an apple quinoa salad and roasted grapes to spinach pappardelle with heirloom tomatoes and truffle. End the meal with Boston cream donuts or rhubarb sorbet. The wine list spans the globe but also includes respectable local offerings from wineries such as the Niagara Peninsula's Le Clos Jordanne.