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Origin Restaurant Review: Chef-owner Claudio Aprile’s Origin, located in a renovated old Toronto building, is all exposed brick, post-industrial light fixtures, wood floors and floor-to-ceiling windows with vistas of St. James Cathedral and Church Street. The lounge bar area to one side has cool black leather furniture with bright color on the walls and statement art. Foodies will want to sit at the counter (built from 120-year-old reclaimed wood) to watch the cooks in action up close. Music is loud, and the pace is speedy. Food is tapas-style and pan-world. Fresh oysters come with a yuzu dressing; fresh-cut fries are topped with spicy Spanish chorizo sauce while deviled eggs support gremolata and smoked bacon. The mozzarella bar dishes are not to be missed, perhaps tender bufala cheese, accompanied by confit tomato, basil and preserved lemon. Some dishes are more ho-hum, like the shrimp ceviche with freeze-dried corn. Miso-glazed black cod in a mushroom broth is a winner, however, as is the raw tuna salad with a spicy ponzu dressing. Sweet-tooths will like the dulce de leche with crunchy caramel and zippy espresso ice and the spiced chocolate pudding topped with airy milk chocolate. The wine list is limited, and BYO is not allowed. Cocktails are the better choice --- go for the Old Spice, made from cedar-steeped rye and grapefruit bitters, or the Maple Sour, a bourbon, Meyer lemon and maple syrup concoction.