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Ormeggio at The Spit Restaurant Review: A little homesick for Lombardy in far northern Italy, chef Alessandro Pavoni fortunately only looked as far as Sydney’s north, at Middle Harbour, to find an atmospheric location for his restaurant. That’s fortunate for local diners, too, as his food had already gained a faithful following in the city. With the Italian word meaning “mooring” as its name, Ormeggio was built glass-sided, boat-like, so that guests could feel they were dining in yet another craft moored in the surrounding marina. Think of the menu as food the next generation of Italians now cooks --- traditional flavors wrought from contemporary techniques, here applied to the best Australian produce. The result is a dynamic line-up with dishes such as charcoal Wagyu beef flank, burnt eggplant tortelli, and Flinders Island kangaroo battuta with watermelon rind and amaranth, chorizo powder and fennel pollen. Dolci fly free with offerings such as Amedei Tuscan black chocolate with olive oil, sourdough and raspberry, or toasted rice gelato served with a rice and ricotta cake. The wines manage to match the expanse of flavors, with 12 available in carafes and 14 by the glass. If for some reason time is against you for dining, the adjoining kiosk (open Wednesday through Sunday from 10 a.m.-3 p.m.) serves coffee, panini and homemade gelato --- ideal if you are heading off on the water, or even while enjoying the same view. One more incentive to visit: people with boats moored at the jetty may pick up their pre-ordered hampers early, before their day out.