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Osteria del Teatro Restaurant Review: Standing unwaveringly on a derelict street corner trashed nightly by careless club-goers, Osteria hangs tough to the ever-changing tides of this crazed neighborhood and fickle food scene. When you first walk in, past the glorious dessert cart, try not to dip a finger in the beckoning bowl of tiramisu. Next, ignore the menu. The specials are the menu here, as your resolute waiter will confirm. Wait for the impossibly long list of specials he’d like to share with you, and be patient as he assertively tells you what he recommends and why. A diverse, if largely upscale, clientele packs Osteria’s 40 or 50 seats. Sharing keen enthusiasm for northern Italian food, all are undoubtedly here to eat, not compete, in romantic, understated elegance. They savor the parchment-wrapped seafood linguine sauced in either tomato red or olive oil-and-garlic white, both unsurpassed. A special of steamed mussels in a citrus-wine broth was so addictive we went back every night for a week until it vanished from the menu.