Osteria la Buca Restaurant Review
5210 Melrose Ave. (Wilton Pl.)
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Los Angeles, CA 90038
323-462-1900 | Make Restaurant Reservations | Menu
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Cuisine
Open
Lunch Tues.-Fri., Dinner Mon.-Sat.Features
- Private room(s)
- Full bar
- Reservations suggested
- Outdoor dining
- Valet parking
- Casual
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Gone are the wood paneling and Fellini scenes that once made Osteria la Buca a little neighborhood joint; an industrial vibe (designed by Brendan Ravenhill) created from cement walls, modern art and exposed Edison light bulbs in its place. Rather than Melrose, guests might think they are in New York, which is apropos, given that it's from where chef Jason Neroni hails. He has replaced a menu of handmade pastas and pizzas with a rustic multitude of seasonal, mostly northern Italian delights. Start with the fava bean crostini topped with lamb pancetta and lemon zest, a focused blend of ingredients recalling the more delicate side of Italian fare. The pizzas are still thin crust and worth trying, though similar to their previous embodiment. Porchetta is a standout: crispy on the outside, juicy and tender on the inside, oozing liquid pork on a bed of cannellini beans and finished with spring onion agrodolce. Unfortunately, the service is cold, lending unnecessarily to an already austere room. Though the wine list is predominately Italian, there are quite a few options, as well as domestic labels, available at a reasonable price.
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