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Ostra Restaurant Review: Ostra’s Oyster Bar, featuring a spicy “Crab Louie,” miniature tuna tacos with wasabi mayo and, of course, oysters, dominates the dining room at the River Walk level of the Mokara Hotel & Spa. Executive chef John Brand, who also helms Las Canarias across the river, emphasizes Texas-sourced seafood such as striped bass and redfish while also admitting Mediterranean sea bass in a yellow pepper romesco sauce and Scottish salmon with a sweet potato hash. Pescaphobes can opt out with Wagyu beef short ribs and an eight-ounce tenderloin massaged with a coffee-spice rub. Given the menu’s focus, the wine list seems red-heavy, especially in California Cabernets, but there are nevertheless plenty of whites at unpunishing prices for the traditionalist.