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Oyamel Cocina Mexicana Restaurant Review: Dressed up in its corner location in Penn Quarter, José Andrés’ Oyamel takes you heart and soul across the border down Mexico way. Revising and enlarging its earlier menu, Andrés has added such crunchables as crispy grasshoppers in a taco, but the kitchen sticks mainly to things that most Yankees will eat: ceviches several ways; tacos with pork, shredded chicken, wild mushrooms, or oxtail; guacamoles; hand-made tortillas; grilled onions. Bigger dishes include the classic mole poblano, Well, the list goes on and on, with so many gustatory diversions that you’ll mark this as a return-trip destination. Many return trips. Desserts are worth a major calorie overload, with cajeta (the traditional caramel made with goat’s milk), molten chocolate cake and chocolate sauce, and ice creams, plus more. For libations, customers can leap into tankfuls of unusual tequilas, or switch over to brews or specialty cocktails. Visually, Andrés has enlivened the setting with a black-and-white screening of a Mexican taco stand plus Mexico City’s Plaza Mayor.