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Paesanos 1604 Restaurant Review: Joe Cosniac has taken his Paesanos formula and pitched much of it for this venture in the ultra-hot Loop 1604 corridor. We accordingly suggest you sidestep the “classics from over 40 years” in favor of more contemporary fare issuing from the open kitchen-as-altar. Crispy oysters with green apple rémoulade and blue mussels with coconut lemon grass brodo are among the appetizer offerings. Diners in garb from scrubs to shorts may also partake of herb-crusted roast chicken with papas bravas or a grilled Bandera quail breast. Ask the wine steward for a companion bottle from a list that emphasizes Italy but doesn’t diss California. In benign weather, the patio, framed in massive limestone blocks and dominated by a rustic water feature, is a pleasant place to contemplate what remains of nature in this urbanizing area of the city. Enjoy some truffle potato chips with Gorgonzola fondue, a split of Champagne, and your favorite thou beside you in the waning wilderness.