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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED PanAsia Fusion Restaurant Review: The door handles are two huge, crossed chopsticks; Japanese lanterns provide soft table lighting and paper umbrellas playfully hang from the ceiling. Bright red chopsticks as well as a knife and fork (all wrapped up in crisp white napkins) sit at each place setting. The 16 tables are far enough apart for private, romantic conversation while the high stools at the bar have an excellent view of the tiny, busy kitchen. The air is full of appetizing smells---familiar and exotic. First dishes such as crisp shrimp wontons with spicy chili aïoli, wok-tossed mussels in a ginger-butter sauce, and miso-marinated, wok-seared sea scallops set the mood for the rest of the meal. The Korean hot pot (thinly sliced beef braised with kimchi) is delicious but jalapeño-hot. The light and crispy wok-seared Colorado trout is served with potato, butternut squash and onion hash and topped with Asian black bean salsa and wasabi-lime beurre blanc. Its an unusual combination that really sings. For the really hearty appetites, an Asian surf and turf: a heaping plate of beef medallions with lobster tail tempura, roast garlic mashed potatoes and miso-steamed veggies. The wine and saké list is good and reasonably priced but not extensive. The list of beers, on the other hand, is stellar and includes standards like Tsing Tao and Sapporo as well as lesser-known labels like OB Lager (Korean), Hue (Vietnamese) and Dragon Stout (Jamaican). Another pleasant surprise is the offering of black and green teas---dozens including Formosa Oolong, Dragon Well, and Jasmine Pearls---served in little cast-iron pots. The best light dessert is the Burmese steamed coconut pudding served with toasted coconut and fresh mango. For sheer gusto, try the flourless chocolate gateau drizzled with a tart raspberry sauce. The servers are attentive and knowledgeable but not obtrusive.