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Panciuto Restaurant Review: Hillsborough’s Panciuto is located in a restored brick-walled storefront across from the historic courthouse. Soft jazz playing in the cozy, unpretentious dining room creates a relaxing ambience, perfect for a leisurely meal. Owner/chef Aaron Vandemark learned the subtleties of Tuscan cuisine assisting Gennaro Villela, former chef of Chapel Hill’s Il Palio. Vandemark uses only the freshest local produce and meats for his Northern Italian-inspired cooking. Wednesdays and Thursdays, small plates rule, allowing patrons the opportunity to order a wide variety of dishes to share. The nightly changing menu may include ricotta gnocchi with guanciale and mushrooms, black garganelli with green tomato sauce and shrimp, and braised pork shank with onion jelly glaze and young collards. Equally deft with desserts, Vandemark shows his skills in such temptations as the ricotta fritters with custard and the chocolate polenta cake with chai ice cream. The wine list features Italian wines from small family-owned vineyards and the knowledgeable staff will guide you to pairings.