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Panciuto Restaurant Review: Located in a refurbished brick-walled storefront across from the old courthouse in historic Hillsborough, Panciuto offers a small but intriguing menu with only two or three choices for each course. Owner-chef Aaron Vandemark learned the subtleties of Northern Italian cuisine while working with Gennaro Villela, former chef of Chapel Hill’s Il Palio, and uses only the freshest local produce and meats for his skillfully seasoned dishes. On any given evening, the nightly changing menu may include black spaghetti with shrimp, clams, chorizo and chilis in a spicy tomato sauce; butternut squash ravioli with toasted pecans and collards; and seared quail with polenta and a whiskey balsamic reduction. Vandemark’s touch is just as deft with desserts. Try the potted chocolate with crushed hazelnut biscotti or the panettone bread pudding with cinnamon ice cream and orange-honey anglaise. Italian wines from small family-owned vineyards make up the list, and Panciuto’s well-trained servers are able to guide you to memorable pairings.