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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Paolo's Restaurant Review: THIS ESTABLISHMENT IS CLOSED The suburban Paolo’s attracts a twenty-something crowd, but older patrons, too, look handsome against the backdrop of this dramatically lit Cal-Ital palace with its sleek black granite and pink marble décor. An open kitchen adds warmth, along with the aroma of pizza cooking in the brick oven. Each dish has an added something: Atlantic salmon is pan-seared and served atop saffron fingerling potatoes, and char-grilled filet mignon is married with Gorgonzola walnut asparagus and peppered red wine jus. Only occasionally does style overrule substance.