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Paper Plane Restaurant Review: Chefs Melissa Allen and Josh Sample command the kitchen of this restaurant situated in a simple slip of a cobbled alleyway; take a chance on the weather and grab a table there, a bit of a risk but the preferred option if conversation is desired. Lacing crisscross over this narrow passage, strings of lights illuminate all when darkness falls. Alternatively, dine inside, downstairs in the pub area in one of the few booths, where a lot of noise emanates from the dimly lit space. Start with a soup, perhaps chilled carrot, flecked with tiny edible flowers and baby root vegetables. Positioned as a side dish but making a good starter are sautéed French horn mushrooms with cherry tomatoes and pistachios --- a straightforward yet compelling collection of flavors. The pork chop comes sliced off the bone, pink and moist, with turnip greens and cornbread, while the lamb rack, with fettuccine, maitake and lacinato kale, was a bit misnamed, presenting a single but ample lamb chop. For dessert, we couldn't resist the chocolate cake, toothsome on its own but elevated by a smoked banana ice cream made in house that set off the dark chocolate. The all-European wine list is short but smartly chosen and well-priced, and the beer line-up is equally tantalizing.