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Paragon Restaurant Review: Spacious, industrial chic Paragon epitomizes the changes of the past 20 years in the Pearl District. A onetime warehouse now houses a lively bar and restaurant serving local microbrews, craft cocktails, and American comfort food. The factory windows and concrete floor create plenty of noise, but it's a friendly buzz, and you can always move outside and sit on the former railroad docks. Survey the menu to find many of the best dishes have an old-fashioned feel, such as a local mushroom risotto, braised pot roast with mashed potatoes, and roasted half chicken with mac ‘n’ cheese. Those seeking a lighter touch and a few more nutrients might opt for a salad of roasted beets, goat cheese and microgreens; a red snapper BLT; or rock shrimp in squid ink pasta with hot peppers and kale. Desserts continue the upscale home-cooking vibe with a chocolate chip ice cream sandwich and a brownie sundae. There are 60 vodkas as well as 30 or so wines by the glass. Brunch offers many savory choices: mushroom crȇpes and creative omelets plus salads and sandwiches from the regular menu. On weekend evenings, consider the special barbecue menu. Service is snappy and urbane.