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Pascal's On Ponce Restaurant Review: Everything about this contemporary French restaurant is modest in scope---the décor, the service, the cuisine and the prices---but grand in impression. That's the point of chef-owner Pascal Oudin, whose namesake eatery has evolved from neighborhood newbie to venerable community favorite. The well-seasoned chef's philosophy is modern but not trendy; he keeps up with culinary currents without exploiting them. A fairly stable menu provides reliable quenelles, terrines, bisques, gratins and racks of lamb. Specials and occasional tweaks include a local blue crab cake with chilled tomato gazpacho and avocado as a starter; and diver sea scallops and beef short ribs served with young fennel, carrot rounds and asparagus, or filet mignon farci with escargots Provençal, au gratin potatoes and horseradish sauce as main courses. Baked Alaska with strawberry and vanilla ice cream and Grand Marnier meringue is a final sweet supplement.