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The Pass Restaurant Review: The Pass is the fine dining side of chefs Terrence Gallivan and Seth Siegel-Gardner’s two-in-one concept The Pass & Provisions, housed in an historic 1930s building in Midtown. Provisions has a more rustic feel, with long communal tables and hearty fare. But walk through the unmarked door to the side and enter a different world, one of modern, minimal design and white tablecloths where chefs serve your meal and describe each of the intricately plated courses on the seasonally inspired tasting. In addition to the nine-course menu, there is a vegetarian version. A tangle of fried beet strings might adorn cobia with lingonberries. Liquid nitrogen and other techniques of molecular gastronomy are often employed, perhaps in a dessert of berries, buttermilk and fennel. Opt for the wine pairings or make selections from the impressive international list. This is not a place you frequent for a particular dish, but a destination to surrender yourself to the whims and talents of the chefs. And for this, you will be rewarded.