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597 Centre St. (Pond St.) Send to Phone

Dinner nightly

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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Perdix Restaurant Review

: The kitchen is big enough for two, maybe a third with their back against the wall and one bowl in hand. It’s perfect for a couple’s first buy. The walls are cheery and limey and minty in color, and there is some nice white wooden detailing. Parking nearby makes this a Jamaica Plain find. This isn’t a first apartment, but rather Perdix, the first (and we’re hoping only, for a while) restaurant from chef Tim Partridge and his wife, host/friend/sommelier/manager/server Nini Diani. Partridge got his cooking chops at The East Coast Grill and The Back Eddy under chef-owner Chris Schlesinger, and he’s got a real understanding of the structure of ethnic cuisines and technique as a result. But he’s really his own man when it comes to conceiving a dish and is very much the man you’d want in your kitchen at home. Given that Perdix has on average eight tables, he’s got the freedom to cook as he would at home---buy fabulous ingredients, have fun, make them taste good. And that’s what he does. Steamed mussels are black peppery in the bun-the-lips sense. Salmon is slathered with tomato jam and herbal tapped with tarragon. Buttered sirloin arrives with a voluptuously flavored and chunky ratatouille. Dessert is a heaping plate of cookies if your seated last and the kitchen needs to clear house for tomorrow’s products. This is eating that happens to be good enough to warrant the name dining. It’s a chance to taste the stylings of Portuguese grandmother’s from New Bedford, Nonna’s from Liguria, tante Marie from Biarritz. And, most of all, Tim Partridge. This is where we come to be well fed, and if Perdix wows...all the better.


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