 Design details at this voguish Presidio outpost are regimented into gleaming rank and file: vintage, stainless cabinets and spotless mirrors behind the marble bar; bare-bulb droplights alternating with silver-bullet ceiling fans; crisp ties and aprons on bartenders and servers. Such natty spit-and-polish is far from old-fashioned or tangential here --- the narrow, historic building was once an Army barracks, and the restaurant's owners have invoked its retro atmosphere with modern panache. Rattan chairs, fronded greenery, and flourishing Presidio views add to the clubby, airy vibe that attracts everyone: no dues, exclusions, or jacket required. Inspired cocktails are blended fresh --- including an expert, balanced Pisco, pineapple punch, and a lingering French 75. Executive chef Ray Tang’s menu of upscale comfort food includes subtly spiced Dungeness crab cake sliders, hearty potato leek soup with preserved Meyer lemons, and a helping of meatloaf --- a moist, slightly charred hunk of nostalgia topped with shoestring fried shallots and laid upon a buttery pile of creamy mashed potatoes. Guilt-inducing desserts include the “dirty half dozen”: fried brioche served beignet-style, with molten chocolate.
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