 Presidio Social Club Restaurant Review: This roomy retreat with its swooping marble bar, sunny palm-flanked patio and clubby dining room occupies former army barracks. History shimmers through this place with its vintage, stainless cabinets, spotless mirrors, bare-bulb droplights, silver-bullet ceiling fans and crisply aproned servers. Chef-owner Ray Tang and chef de cuisine Jay Abrams overlay retro roots with twenty-first-century savvy, offering all-American comfort food classics such as braised short ribs, roasted sole, tomato soup and mac ‘n’ cheese along with latter-day favorites such as chilaquiles, braised pork belly and challah french toast. Modern fusion choices add further spice, such as banh mi sandwiches, tea-smoked trout and lemon grassy East-West dumpling soup. Meatloaf is a moist, slightly charred hunk of nostalgia topped with shoestring fried shallots atop a buttery pile of creamy mashed potatoes. Freshness and innovation shine --- even in sides such as spinach tossed lightly with currants and pine nuts. Save room for dessert: molten chocolate beignets with crème anglaise are knockouts, as are pineapple upside-down cake and chocolate sundaes with massive house-made marshmallows. Wines are plentiful; classic cocktails such as the seductively violet-flavored Aviation 1916 suit the setting perfectly.
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