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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED PS 7’s Restaurant Review: Playing with his food may be one of a kid’s happiest pastimes. So what happens when you find a very upscale restaurant owned and cooked for by a chef who also likes to play with his food? The answer is simple: sit back and have fun, too. One of executive chef Peter Smith’s biggest culinary triumphs may be his skill with curing his own meats: hence the menu mainstay of homemade hot dogs---small, flavorful and perched on their own homemade hot dog buns. And, as a double treat---well, double dare, if you are counting calories---are the vinegary shoestring fries, hot, crispy, and tucked into a cone-shaped holder. Don’t skip past the starters; Smith’s shellfish stew is as robust and enticing as any dish you’ll find on the Mediterranean coast. Oh, yes, his breads: baked fresh daily, these come to you as savory biscuits in three different flavors. Save room for dessert, however. Look for the mini donuts with a chocolate sauce, or perhaps the fruit pastry of the day. The restaurant also houses a glass-enclosed wine cellar that shares space with all the meat Smith cures in its temperature-controlled space.