 The Publican Restaurant Review: Good things really do come to those who wait. Or, at least, that’s the case with The Publican, the brasserie from the same team behind Blackbird and avec (Paul Kahan, Donnie Madia, Eduard Seitan and Terry Alexander). From its large selection of oysters, to its grand, three-tiered seafood tower and aged ham with goat butter and peasant bread, there’s munching of all kinds. Though the menu changes often, dishes we have enjoyed include Wagyu beef tartare with duck fat fries; suckling pig with dandelion greens and currants; and wood-roasted black sea bass. With a vibe that lies somewhere in between a European beer hall and a Henry VIII feast --- think a large U-shaped communal table, booths enclosed with swinging doors, 14-foot-high ceilings --- this Fulton Market restaurant may not look like it’s dishing out such good food, but it most definitely is. Expect 100-plus ales, lagers, stouts and ciders. Tide yourself over during the inevitable wait with a few brews at one of the tables in the bar.
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