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Quaglino's Restaurant Review: Vast, buzzing and full of life, Quags has its detractors but it is hard not to be impressed by its sheer scale and style. From street level you descend, first to a bar area then, via a broad, sweeping, central stairway to the dining room proper. Dress to impress---everyone else does---and expect to be assessed as you descend. That this is a basement will surprise; the room is bright and airy, the enormous central skylight bathing diners in its glow. The menu runs the whole gamut from seafood, displayed at the back of the room, to traditional brasserie-style dishes: bang-bang chicken salad, lobster bisque, sautéed foie gras for starters, then top grills or rump of lamb or cote de veau for mains. If you opt for seafood, the cost can shoot up. Desserts follow the comfort mode, tarts and ice creams along with a few more English puddings like treacle tart. Wines are international, climbing steeply and quickly. Set lunch, 2 courses £18.50, 3 courses £24.50; set pre- and post-theatre menu 2 course including glass of wine or beer £18.50.