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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED R.L. Steamer's Restaurant Review: Its quite a leap from Dogtown, the neighborhood just south of the St. Louis Zoo, out to West County. But Larry Shifrin has a new and improved version of his R.L.Steamers, and a lot more room, too, just like most of the folks who migrate to this upscale area. While he has added an area for retail sales, if you cook it yourself, youll miss the real difference in the new location---the touch of executive chef Justin Keimon. Keimon, formerly at Grenache, makes the fish sing and the side dishes tap dance. His ability to go beyond the near-ubiquitous vegetable medley (squash, zucchini, carrots) is splendid, with the sort of imagination that makes Moms admonition to clean your plate utterly superfluous. This spot is hot and although its an early crowd, the only time we suggest trying it without a reservation is later in the evening, with the concomitant risk of the kitchen running out of yellowtail or swordfish.