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Soprano Cafe Restaurant Review: Since taking over the stylishly rustic space formerly known as Racks, Sicilian Rocco Soprano has dropped the alimentari/salumeria (gourmet grocery and charcuterie shop) components, and also gradually redefined the renamed indoor/outdoor place as more of a family-friendly full restaurant than adult eatery/lounge focusing on small plates and pizza. But for our money, despite the added emphasis on prodigiously-portioned pastas, grilled steakhouse fare, and Italian classic meat or seafood entrées, the best bets here are still thin-crusted pizzas from the coal oven, burn-blistered and topped largely with imported or artisan ingredients. Soprano’s truffled white pie has become locally famous, but for those, like us, who overdosed years ago on all truffle substances except the fresh-shaved seasonal real thing, we’d especially recommend the Secchi: sopressata salami, fior di latte mozzarella, zesty spicy-sweet tomato sauce, piquant provolone, and goat cheese. We also suggest the salumi or cheese boards, again featuring imports like prosciutto di Parma. We can’t say the same for surf ‘n’ turf, shrimp tacos, or other silly attempts to accommodate the most unsophisticated American palates. For ideal South “FlorItalian” ambience, the best place to eat remains the expansive outdoor deck on the mangrove-bordered Intracoastal Waterway (with docking for diners arriving by boat).