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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Rajun Cajun Restaurant Review: Thomas Armstrong has to be Hartford's most peripatetic chef. He has probably seen the inside of more kitchens than any other chef in town. Of late, he's been doing his delta thing in a New Park Avenue kitchen that has seen many a restaurant come and go. Here's hoping Armstrong's roots become more solid because his cooking surely is. When he's on, this Louisiana-raised chef puts out a mean jambalaya, heavenly blackened catfish, mouth-watering barbecue ribs, and an honest shrimp Creole that will have you smelling magnolia blossoms. His two signature dishes are Louisiana Lenny's Shrimp and Chicken Ya Ya, a spicy marriage of chicken and shrimp in gravy over rice, and Pasta Big Mamou, a delicate toss of pasta, crawfish, zucchini, cauliflower and broccoli in a spicy cream sauce. Crawfish Desire, a mix of swamp bugs and pasta in a blush cream sauce speaks of the Vieux Carré. And red beans and rice with sausage will do any day of the week. How Armstrong feeds you so much for so little has always been baffling. But his heart, like his soul, is in his food.