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Ralph's on the Park Restaurant Review: City Park, one of the nation's largest urban parks, provides a backdrop for Ralph’s, an elegant establishment. Although it has undergone a series of chef changes, it has remained on track, thanks largely to the steady hand of veteran local restaurateur Ralph Brennan. Brennan’s smartest innovation was the introduction of a small-plates menu, in addition to his entrée list. The small-plates selections may include blue crab beignets, glazed shrimp, lobster salad and even a crab meat ravigote napoleon. Entrées run the gamut from a lamb T-bone to country-fried chicken. White chocolate banana bread pudding proves there indeed is something new that can be done with bread pudding. But for real chocolate lovers, the “Chocolate Grasshopper” is a must: baked chocolate custard with whipped crème de menthe cream and a chocolate cookie crust. The wine list balances interesting small-lot wines from the world over with a smartly selected list of drinkable California brand name selections. Pay special attention to the “Unusual Suspects” section where you might even run across something as rare as a 1993 Duckhorn Cabernet. Pricey? Yes, but you deserve it, don’t you? Reserve a window seat overlooking the park, or settle in at the bar.