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Rancher's Club of New Mexico Restaurant Review: Though it’s getting crowded up there as Albuquerque enters a restaurant renaissance, there’s still a little room at the top for The Rancher's Club. The place has been serving aged rib-eyes and porterhouses with all the classic sauces and trimmings --- from oysters Rockefeller and wedge salads to tableside Caesar salads, lobster tails and king crab legs --- to those prepared to pony up the cash for many years. Now that the kitchen has entered the twenty-first century, novelty-seekers have a reason to visit too: the menu is increasingly rife with game like antelope, venison and wild boar as well as globally influenced dishes such as tempura tuna rolls and bison carpaccio with sunchokes. Desserts as well are surprisingly up-to-date: Asian pear cobbler, for instance, is a nice, light twist on the homey staple. We wish we could say the same of the wine list, which continues to rely too heavily on big-name trophies from France and California (though a decent selection of port and Cognac adds a finishing touch of spice). But when it comes to the ambience, we’re glad old-school touches still abound: in the elegant ranch house-style dining room replete with antler chandeliers and leather seating, you’ll be pampered by live piano music and professional servers bearing entrées under silver cloches for a dramatic flourish.