: In the historic Hamm Building, A Rebours (French for “against the grain”) is a comfortable and upscale French bistro complete with tiled floor, zinc bar and that lovely golden light that makes us all appear très chic. The steamed mussels bathed in an herbed white wine and butter sauce are a good starter, as is the gravlax or foie gras. Digging in is easy with the duck cassoulet, glazed pheasant breast or tenderloin served with traditional béarnaise sauce. Desserts are sometimes playful but more often beautifully straightforward, like the poached pear in a milky caramel sauce. The service is some of the best in the city: approachable, attentive and quite knowledgeable about the lovely French wines that make up a consumer-oriented wine list.

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