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Redbones Restaurant Review: Well before Davis Square was a magnet for hipsters, artists and the coffeehouses they favor, it was a mecca for fans of down-home barbecue and beer connoisseurs. Redbones still packs ’em in with its versatile menu: there’s pulled pork with a North Carolina-style vinegar twang, smoky St. Louis ribs and fork-tender Texas brisket rounded out by catfish, hush puppies, potlikker and signature “atomic corn relish.” The come-one-come-all ambience emanates equally from the blue-collar bar with buzzing neon signs; the raucous, cramped, paint-scrawled dining room; and the moody basement space known as Underbones. Amid all this tradition, though, are admirable signs of progressiveness: Redbones’ delivery service and valet parking service both are bicycle, not automobile, oriented. On weekends, expect a wait that spills out onto the sidewalk.