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Redbones Restaurant Review: Well before Davis Square was a magnet for hipsters, artists and the coffeehouses they favor, it was a mecca for fans of down-home barbecue and beer connoisseurs. Redbones still packs ’em in with its versatile menu: smoked fork-tender beef brisket, hearty barbecue hash, juicy Texas-style beef ribs, and slow-smoked pulled pork. If barbecue isn’t your thing, try some fried catfish, buffalo shrimp, grilled salmon, grilled sausage or a veggie burger. For dessert, we like the White Trash Sundae, a fun take on the traditional ice cream sundae --- a bowl filled with ice cream sandwiches topped with whipped cream and chocolate sauce. The come-one-come-all ambience emanates equally from the blue-collar bar with buzzing neon signs; the raucous, cramped, paint-scrawled dining room; and the moody basement space known as Underbones. Amid all this tradition, though, are admirable signs of progressiveness: Redbones’ delivery service and valet parking both are bicycle, not automobile, oriented. On weekends, expect long waits that spill out onto the sidewalk.