 Restaurant Eugene Restaurant Review: Linton and Gina Hopkins, whose other Atlanta ventures include Holeman & Finch Public House, H&F Bread Co. and H&F Bottle Shop, operate this classy establishment named for chef Linton's grandfather. Menu selections change daily, but you can expect to find many local products, such as Georgia sturgeon caviar, Ellijay apples or Greendale Farm cheese. An entire section of the menu is devoted to listing these farms and sources name after name. Southern sensibilities and ingredients define every dish, although they may not all be done in a classic manner. And vegetable dishes may not all be vegetarian; wild forest mushrooms comes with chanterelle purée and chicken jus, among other elements. Further illustrations of his particular brand of New American cuisine might include sorghum glazed pork belly with accompaniments like pickled ramp hearts and peanuts, or coriander and black pepper swordfish with Gulf Coast shrimp, baby cabbage, Cope's corn purée, arugula and scallions. The ideas expressed might come from rarely seen sources, so the tasting menus, such as five courses for $75, are big hits. (A vegetarian tasting is available as a counterpart to the chef's prix-fixe.) Pastry chef Aaron Russell's desserts present similarly surprising ideas, such as apple pâté with yogurt streusel, mousse and mulled red wine. This menu never bores, always shines, and showcases the work of an ever inventive kitchen. The good wine list of half-bottle choices is distinctive, and there are numerous equally interesting options by the glass.
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