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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Restaurant Oceana Restaurant Review: Yes, Virginia; thanks to the miracle of air freight, there is such a thing as great seafood in the desert. Granted, the local market is a fairly small pond, but thanks to Oceana---whose proprietors made the swim upstream from San Franciscos food scene two years ago---it boasts as big a fish as one could hope to find in any other culinary port of call. Having no instinct to school with its local competition, Oceana isnt about oyster bar grub or platters of crab legs and fish fillets. The siren song of Chef Ercolino Crugnales exquisite a la carte and tasting menus beckons to steal you away on a voyage previously uncharted by your palate. Resign yourself to the irresistible pleasures of rare ahi tuna with Husdon Valley foie gras, portobello mushroom and red wine reduction. Drift away on the perfect simplicity of Alaskan Halibut slathered in smoked bacon-leek broth. The wine world is also your oyster at Oceana. There are flexible flight tastings, A-list labels and vintages, extensive by the glass selections and suggested course pairings. With service gracefully treading that fine line between pester and neglet, its always high tide at Restaurant Oceana.