The Restaurant at The Setai Restaurant Review
The Setai
2001 Collins Ave. (20th St.)
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Miami Beach, FL 33139
305-520-6000 | Make Restaurant Reservations | Menu
The Restaurant at The Setai is one of our 2012
| Top 10 Miami/South Florida Brunch Restaurants
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Cuisine
Open
Breakfast & Lunch Mon.-Sat., Dinner nightly, Brunch Sun.Features
- Heart-healthy dishes
- Romantic setting
- Private room(s)
- Full bar
- Reservations suggested
- Outdoor dining
- Valet parking
- Business casual
Wine
Great Wine List* Click here for rating key
Since opening in 2005, The Restaurant (the premier eatery at The Setai) has had the reputation of being one of Miami’s most expensive dining experiences. Prices remain high. But nowhere else in town will you find both skillfully-rendered classics and inspired contemporary versions of dishes from a plethora of Asian locales---Singapore, China, India, Thailand, Malaysia, Indonesia, even hits of Japan. David Werly, who replaced former executive chef Jonathan Wright, has retained some of the menu's most appealing dishes, like authentic Singapore laksa (the city's rich and exotic coconut-spiked spicy-sweet seafood noodle soup), wok-fried crab claws with pepper and chili, and dim sum that are so well-flavored in themselves that their accompanying dipping sauces are niceties, not necessities. Werly has added more Japanese-influenced dishes, like yuzu flash-marinated hamachi with mirin/saké hearts of palm, avocado and mango; the sashimi/ceviche fusion combination, while not terribly original, tastes nicely balanced and works with the rest of the menu. What doesn't work: the confusing addition of numerous western and westernized-fusion dishes that seem to be there for no purpose except to try to placate everyone---including diners who don't like Asian food. Foie gras torchon with Sauternes jelly, apricot compote and vincotto? Colorado lamb loin with cannelloni bean purée, tomato confit, zucchini and roasted garlic? Please. The East/West juxtaposition is, however, great fun on Sunday brunch's over-the-top buffet tables featuring dim sum plus---everything. The wine list remains encyclopedic, with both rare and famous selections.
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