Open late bar only
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Revolution Restaurant Review: Before or after an event at the Durham Performing Arts Center or a downtown gallery opening, drop by Revolution for a “small plate” or two or three. Or make a leisurely dinner savoring chef Jim Anile’s seasonal menu the evening’s main feature. Unfussy tapas-size dishes served in a sophisticated contemporary space include charred octopus salad, Angus beef tartare, beer-braised mussels with tomato and basil, and raw oysters with crème fraîche and a Champagne vinegar mignonette sauce. Larger plates include veal osso buco with house-made spinach tagliatelle, a Provence-style fish stew, and an homage to Anile’s adopted South: “chicken-fried” strip steak with cream cheese mashed potatoes and onion gravy. For dessert, go for a simple sorbet made from local fruit. To celebrate a special occasion, ask for the three-, five- or seven-course tasting menu and let the chef suggest wine pairings. The wine list offers some unusual bubbles and nice dessert wines, many well priced. Italian and French selections shape an extensive and pricier “chef’s reserve” collection.