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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Richard Perry at the Lindell Terrace Restaurant Review: 1972 was a revolutionary year for St. Louis restaurants. Richard Perry was one of the primary insurgents, offering his takes on traditional Midwestern food with a modern twist at his restaurant, the Jefferson Avenue Boarding House. It was pretty radical stuff for St. Louis back then, enough so that he garnered national recognition as America finally began to respect regional cuisine. After an absence of more than a decade, he's returned to a location a block away from the action on Euclid Avenue. The dark, quiet interior offers as much of a velvet-cushion feel as his original site. Dinner begins with a basket of house-made bread, including the signature strawberry bread, and proceeds to a four-course set menu offering a choice of four entrées. The overall style is homey-haute. A thick potato-leek soup served from an iron kettle is followed by a handful of locally grown greens with perhaps a few tiny tomatoes barely dressed, the better to appreciate their individual flavors. Entrées vary from vegetarian pastas to pot roast, and dessert might be a cobbler made with fruit from (relatively) nearby orchards. It's the old Boarding House food, just far less radical and more like comfort food these days.