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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Rico's Bucktown Restaurant Review: George Rico probably cant cook, but as a major domo he has few equals in New Orleans. After several decades as maître d at Commanders Palace in the Garden District, Rico now finds himself juggling reservations and tables at his own very casual, and always humming, eatery on the New Orleans lakefront. Creole classics---such dishes as shrimp rémoulade, fish meunière, gumbo, sweet potato-pecan pie and shrimp Creole---are the stock in trade at Ricos Uptown. In the large, single dining room whitewashed walls form the backdrop for the occasional jazz poster and the functional furniture. When an overflow occurs, customers are directed to the adjacent deck, where roll-up curtains of clear plastic ward off the rain or cold. Getting a table, even with a reservation, means competing with a small horde of locals.