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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Ristorante Amada Amante Restaurant Review: If high-class dining can make a go in the 'burbs, it will be thanks to this unusual and pricey destination in Rockville, a restaurant that makes a bold and downtown statement about sophisticated cooking. We managed to get reservations and found a ready-made happening: Its sleek and handsome bar with a vast wine cellar built into its wall attracts the polo crowd, while the dining rooms, presided over by chef-owner Phil Burleson, throb with conversation. Although the menu changes regularly, perhaps even weekly, count yourself lucky if you find the classy crab cakes, meaty bundles mounded on roasted garlic mashed potatoes. These may well be the best in this town obsessed with crab cakes. If you must have lamb, be advised that the advertised rack, while good, consists of four bones only, so the portions are small. Head instead to the pork loin wrapped in applewood-smoked bacon, a real success story. We trifled with the idea of dessert, and split an outstanding cherry and cheese strudel, which should be mandatory.