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Ristorante Geranio Restaurant Review: After a period of relative silence from chef Troy Clayton, his fans from his days cooking at the Hyatt Regency in Reston (and previously with famed Jean-Louis Palladin) are undoubtedly happy to find him. Hes best when creating at the stove, and his splendid Italian cooking at Geranio shows off his culinary skills. Elements of his lunch menu show up again at dinner, but in general, luncheons are lighter and feature several entrée salads and main-dish pastas. Its easy to be lured right past the appetizers, but youd miss out on the rather startling broth stocked with five varieties of onions---startling because it looks tame but, unlike French onion soup, packs a peppery punch. Pastas take on a new significance after this light soup, and qualify as perfect light entrées. We recommend the penne with seared fresh tuna, which keeps you just this side of gluttony, thereby saving a tiny bit of room for Claytons dandy lemon tart. We also recommend the grilled salmon, seared sea scallops, beef ragoût, braised lamb shank, osso buco, venison and Maine lobster with scallops and mussels.