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Geranio Ristorante Restaurant Review: Chef Troy Clayton's Italian cooking at Geranio shows off his culinary skills. Elements of his lunch menu show up again at dinner, but in general, luncheons are lighter and feature several entrée salads and main-dish pastas. It's easy to be lured right past the appetizers, but you'd miss out on the rather startling broth stocked with five varieties of onions --- startling because it looks tame but, unlike French onion soup, packs a peppery punch. Pastas take on a new significance after this soup, and qualify as ideal entrées. We recommend the penne with seared fresh tuna, which keeps you just this side of gluttony, thereby saving a tiny bit of room for Clayton's dandy lemon tart. We also recommend the grilled salmon, seared sea scallops, beef ragoût, braised lamb shank, osso buco, venison and Maine lobster with scallops and mussels. Be sure to peruse the extensive wine list. Note that private dining is also available.