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River Ranch Restaurant Restaurant Review: River Ranch Restaurant makes the most of the Truckee River. Rafters enter and exit the water right near the restaurant, making for excellent people-watching from the deck at lunchtime. Rafters usually head to the café for spicy wings, rock shrimp tacos and meatball sandwiches after their ride; for a quiet, romantic meal we recommend River Ranch in the evening. Start with the crispy sweetbread made with brown butter and shallots. White wine broth adds flavor to an enormous polenta square topped with sautéed spinach, heirloom tomatoes and blue cheese; it sounds odd, but it’s rich and tasty. A dried fruit and port demi-glace balances earthy slices of elk loin.