RN74 Restaurant Review
Joshua Green Building
1433 Fourth Ave. (Pike St.)
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Seattle, WA 98101
206-456-7474 | Make Restaurant Reservations
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Imagine a creative collision between a classy European train station, a posh wine bar, and a clubby expense-account restaurant. While a train-themed place may sound odd, chef-restaurateur Michael Mina pulls it off. His Seattle outpost is named after a highway in the Burgundy region of France, and offers a New York vibe with a hint of Las Vegas. The elegant space features leather booths and dark reclaimed wood, which add rustic charm. Unfortunately, high noise levels rule out quiet conversations. The pricey wine list offers more than 10,000 bottles, but also has some mid-range options and 35 wines by the glass. For starters, the Hudson Valley foie gras sliders served with caramelized onions and apple mustard, and the tomato soup fondue are winners. Other first courses range from sweet corn and Dungeness crab bisques to a “BLT Salad.” Entrées taking center stage include a lamb shank cassoulet and beef bourguignon starring braised short ribs and maitake mushrooms in a complex sauce. We also suggest the wild king salmon matched with foie gras and morel mushrooms. For dessert: hand-cut beignets with salted caramel sauce and opera torte with espresso curd and almond milk ice cream. Service is polished but surprisingly casual in a pleasant way.
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