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Rue Cler Restaurant Review: Just as at most of the bistros lining the famous Paris market street for which it is named, Rue Cler's crowds can get dense. But if you plan it right, you can drop in for dependable classics in an unchanging menu that includes salade niçoise, a buttery liver pâté, roast chicken, moules frites, and soupe à l’oignon gratinée, as well as a few seasonal specialties such as slow-roasted pork loin with herb spätzle, duck ragoût with wide noodles, or leg of lamb with lardon cream and Brussels sprouts. The nightly three-course prix-fixe dinner is a bargain at $30. Don’t skip dessert. The chocolate terrine, crème brûlée, and delicate crêpes conclude a meal in the same classic fashion in which it began. The wine list, true to character, focuses on moderately priced French wines. Servers are fully up to speed on the wines, which complement the food. The entire restaurant is non-smoking.