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The Sandbar Fish House & Market Restaurant Review: Since its relocation from downtown, Andrew Weissman’s Sandbar has sailed ever-calmer seas, its repertoire expanding, the cooking becoming more self-assured. The kitchen offers plates such as sautéed barramundi in black truffle foam and Georges Bank skate wing with a salad of melon and fennel. Cold, poached arctic char with yuzu aïoli makes for a change of pace. Raw seafoods that made Sandbar’s reputation are still on offer, of course; think scallops with yuzu and ginger and several “seviches” --- notably the octopus. A Mexican burger has crept onto the lunch menu --- and it’s among the best in town; fancier tournedos are a possibility at dinnertime. But a much-grown selection of both whites and reds means that the impressive (if still smallish) wine list can accommodate all tastes admirably. Conclude with the Key lime pie that is Sandbar’s contribution to the dessert hall of fame --- though we wouldn’t turn down the Tahitian vanilla cheesecake.