 Seasonal Restaurant & Weinbar Restaurant Review: Kurt Gutenbrunner has been a one-man Austrian cooking force in New York City. But at last he has company. Enter Seäsonal. The umlaut and the name say it all: this is the cuisine of mitteleuropa emphasizing seasonal ingredients. The menu generally offers what you’d expect when it comes to haute Austrian fare: spätzle (which was bland), tender milk-fed veal cheeks in a goulash, and, of course, Wiener Schnitzel (served with a lingonberry compote). But, curiously enough, for a cuisine that comes from a landlocked country, the seafood dishes here really excel: pumpkin seed-encrusted sea bass explodes with flavor, monkfish with a parsley purée that helps bring out the flavor of the fish, and diver scallops cooked in a red-beet butter. The mostly Austrian wine list complements a majority of the dishes---and, again, especially the seafood---very well.
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