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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Seasons Restaurant Restaurant Review: Chef Ben Takahashi has made this wonderful upstairs dining room his own. Takahashi is one of the unheralded wizards of Hawaii regional cuisine. Perfect charbroiled filets opakapaka in a aromatic fennel nage with a slight tamarind tang. Crisp skinned little moi filets in a shrimp-flavored dashi, with quick wilted lettuce. A barigoule of baby vegetables with lobster. Medallions of lamb with chanterelle-packed mashed potatoes. For dessert, a crème brûlée with lemon compote and fresh berries. This food is so light you seem to inhale it rather than eat. Sommelier Brian Geiser is deft at finding the right glass of wine for each course. But if you want this splendid food, hurry. The persistent rumor is that Spago will soon fill this location. We like Spago, but Seasons is a great restaurant.