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Seven Park Place by William Drabble Restaurant Review: The small gem of a hotel in St. James’s that was expensively refurbished as part of the Althoff Hotel Collection grabbed William Drabble, previously at Aubergine, as the chef for its restaurant. Décor involves silks, wood and touches of chinoiserie in a series of small rooms, all a bit over the top but definitely comfortable. Drabble’s cooking is spot on, from the amuse-gueule of seared tuna with avocado and basil to starters like warm salad of quail and veal sweetbreads with a warm orange and hazelnut dressing, or carpaccio of scallops with Jerusalem artichokes and truffle vinaigrette. Main dishes may include assiette of pork with caramelized apple purée and braised celery, or fillet of turbot braised in red wine with cepes and bacon. Desserts follow the theme of British ingredients cooked with skill, as in Bramley apple mousse with blackberries. Set 2-course lunch £25.50, 3 courses £29.50. À la carte 2 courses £55, 3 courses £61.