* Click here for rating key
Simpson's-In-The-Strand Grand Divan Restaurant Review: At an age exceeding 150 years, Simpson's could be excused for moving slowly. But it doesn't. As soon as beef on the bone was liberated, the famous silver trolleys were loaded with whole ribs of Aberdeen Angus beef. Ancient curmudgeons might complain that it is not invariably cut as razor thin as it used to be, and may, or may not, regret that cabbage is now an optional vegetable, not a compulsory penance. Other roasts offered à la carte or as daily specials include lamb, suckling pig, duck, capon and game in season. Starters such as oysters, smoked salmon or cream of lobster soup also fly the national flag. More traditional still are savouries and puddings such as treacle tart with custard or plum crumble tart with clotted cream. All this in a room that recalls the splendours of a gentleman's club, with discreet alcoves for politicians and captains of industry and long tables in the centre for the hordes. Wines are mainly classical French, well suited to the cooking. Set breakfast £19-£21.50, set lunch and pre-theatre 2-course meal £25.75, 3 courses £31.