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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Soseki Restaurant Review: Soseki is decorated like an early twentieth-century Japanese tea house with dark wood panels, kimonos, antiques and ceilings papered with the book covers of Natsume Soseki, the Japanese novelist who lived in London. Window seats look out onto the Swiss Re building (aka the Gherkin); there are private pagoda rooms, a sushi bar and a traditional tatami area. The concept is based on kaiseki kappo, or Japanese haute cuisine, a banquet of a series of dishes originally created for the rich merchants of nineteenth-century Osaka where the chef cooks according to availability of ingredients. Sushi and sashimi are the main points here, joined by grilled and steamed dishes. The nigiri sushi is impressive: salmon, sea bass and yellowtail. Saké is available, of course, but there are also well selected wines from smaller producers, and beers. Prix-fixe menus from £22 to £60.