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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Sostanza Trattoria Restaurant Review: Nestled into upscale Madison Park on the edge of Lake Washington, this charming neighborhood trattoria draws well-heeled locals. It's also worth the drive for outsiders, especially in summer months when dinner is served on the pretty outdoor patio. Set on two levels, the long, narrow downstairs dining room with rustic accents has an inviting tawny glow from the warm wall color and a blazing fire. Upstairs, the bar and a second dining room glow with light from skylights and a balcony. Chef-owner Lorenzo Ciancusi keeps his Northern Italian-style menu simple. He's a whiz at risotto, which may accompany grilled quail wrapped in pancetta, or which can simply stand on its own, flavored with a luxurious, earthy mix of wild mushrooms, sweet onions, red wine, Marsala and Parmesan. Pappardelle is graced with an equally lusty veal ragù. Humble penne turns sophisticated presented in a grappa-laced tomato cream sauce spiked with pancetta and green peppercorns. Start with assorted antipasti or a bracing bowl of Tuscan bean soup, and be sure to leave room for the decadent dark chocolate mousse.